Kerhao Yin interview
Men’s sports jackets and ski jumpsuits are probably not the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Women’s fashion but designer Kerhao Yin is looking to change that with his new AW 11/12 collection. Bold, vivid and distinctive are just a few words to describe Yin’s use of fabrics and textures. You can see that he held no reservations when incorporating color, ultimately creating an innovative look that still remains flattering to the female form. With illustrations already published in major fashion magazines such as Elle and Harper’s Bazaar, he has already proven that he is talented and now with this collection he has proven his ability to personify bravery and freedom through clothing.
OPEN LAB: I hear that you are a recent graduate of Central Saint Martins; I would like to take this time to say congratulations. Do you feel that the education you received from Saint Martins prepared you to launch your very own collection and become a part of the fashion industry?
Kerhao Yin: Thank you. I think that good education should prepare students for the real world. The Saint Martins MA course run by Professor Louise Wilson is very much in tune with the fashion industry and Louise is famous for her extremely high standards. Students come to the course to find out what they are really good at and develop that identity. I think nothing can prepare you better than knowing who you are as a designer.
OL: Who did you design this collection for? What girl could you see wearing your pieces?
KY: I didn’t start with just one specific girl in this collection. Menswear, especially vintage men’s sport jackets that I bought from all over Europe and re-modeled on a girl, hugely influenced me and became the basis for my collection. However, I always like a girl who is effortless, understated and has a true sense of coolness? Perhaps another word? Attitude? Herself?
OL: All art, in some way, serves a purpose. What message do you hope to convey through your collection?
KY: Essentially it is about a certain type of girl or vibe that I want to celebrate with each collection but, for me, nothing is more important than wear-ability.
OL: How long did it take for you to complete the collection?
KY: It took about 5 months for the MA collection.
OL: What types of fabric did you use?
KY: I worked with a mixture of Fleece, Boucle, Wool, Double Duchess Satin and recycled Nylon from old clothing.
OL: What were you doing before you started designing?
KY: I started out as a painter. I was trained in painting from when I was at High School and then I did a degree in Drawing after which I came straight to study Fashion at Saint Martins.
OL: In a recent interview you mentioned that finances would play a major role in how your career will unfold, as it does in many, what are some other hardships you faced when starting out?
KY: I think most young designers struggle with the finance side of things in London. It is a tough city and so many people are trying to break into the fashion industry. To manage all of that on top of producing a collection can really be a challenge. Hopefully that side of things will get better once I have more experience and eventually a healthy support system behind me with a business partner in the near future.
OL: Who would you say were your most loyal supporters? The people who pushed you?
KY: Friends have always believed in me and my Mother. She dislikes anything I do and that pushes me.
OL: What is the single most important thing that you learned from working with Chloe And Vanessa Bruno?
KY: All women like flattering clothes.
OL: I read somewhere that sushi played a part in creation of this collection, would you care to elaborate on that?
KY: That was actually the most amusing thing I read about my work. When a friend sent me the link, I actually didn’t know who wrote that review. They never interviewed me so it was purely someone’s interpretation. I can safely say that I don’t think I will ever base my collection on any sort of food or drink…
OL: You have an interesting mix of possible cultural influences, you yourself are half Burmese and half Taiwanese and you are based in London. Would you say that your line is a fusion of all these cultures sort of coming together?
KY: I think my background makes me who I am even though I don’t necessarily draw obvious cultural references and apply them directly to my designs. What I take away with me is more of a vibe, an alternative way of thinking and the fact that my emotions are not strongly attached to either of the cultures, makes me want to create a gang or a place for myself. I suppose a nomadic way of living has probably affected me the most.
OL: I understand that ski jackets played a role in creating the collection but you combine an interesting mix of textures and colors in many ways it reminds me of the Burmese longyi, was that incorporated in any way?
KY: Yes, I bought all sorts of sports jackets during my research and the ski jumpsuit, actually, was one of the items that I just wrapped around the models waist like a piece of fabric instead of wearing it… so maybe it’s that wrapping thing reminds you of a Longyi. But it didn’t come to mind until you mentioned it now.
OL: Do you have any desire to do something in menswear?
KY: Absolutely. I think I will one day when the time is right.
OL: Where do you see yourself and your fashion career in 10 years?
KY: I hope I will still be very passionate about ideas no matter what happens in 10 years time.
OL: What do you hope to accomplish over the course of your career?
KY: I merely started, so ask me this again in a few years time. I might then have a more fitting answer to this :)
Interview by Vincent Moulden
